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The “Seam Grip +WP” is the same product that used to be called “Seam Grip” and you’re right – I just checked and “polyurethane” doesn’t appear anywhere on the new tube or packaging.

Most of the content on this site was written before they changed their product names and messed everything up, so I’m going back to add “+WP” everywhere Seam Grip is…[Read more]

I’m not seeing any current products on the Gear Aid website that state they work with Polyurethane. I thought I was safe going with Gear Aide Seam Grip and didn’t realize there were 5 or 6 different versions.

Oh bummer. I have the whole raft completed except tiedowns! I’ll have to do what I can through the T-zip.

Looking around now I’m finding a several different versions of SeamGrip.

SeamGrip+SIL (silicone coated fabrics)

SeamGrip +WP  (nylon, canvas, vinyl, rubber)

SeamGrip, white & blue tube (coated and uncoated polyurethane)

AuquaSeal+FD…[Read more]

Hmm, yeah, that’s a problem. The “+SIL” stuff is “silicone tent sealant”, and will only stick to silicone coated fabrics, not polyurethane. It used to be called “SilNet,” but I guess they changed the name to “Seam Grip+SIL” for some reason. I will add a note to the instructions warning people not to confuse the two. Unfortunately I think you’ll…[Read more]

I used Gear Aid Seam Grip. I just noticed when I checked the link where I bought it that it also has “+SIL” Not sure if that matters?

A few of the seams I powdered after they were cured 24+hrs. Others I just left alone. All had cured a week plus before I had this issue.

Interesting… what brand is it? I haven’t seen this with Seam Grip before (or any of the other McNett/Gear Aid polyurethane products), but I have seen it with all the other seam sealants I’ve tried, which is why I recommend the Gear Aid stuff.

Looks great. I’m in the process of building a Skeena with the same trips (and more) in mind.

Thanks. To try and minimize leaks, I actually reinforced all the points where the seam strip intersects the floor with a small TPU patch. I’m feeling brave. Think I’ll try without sealing and fix through T-Zip if needed. I’ll report back.

I used to only seal around the places where the seam strips intersect with the floor, but in spite of my best efforts I always ended up with at least one leak that I had to track down, and finally I decided that for me (and most people) it is worthwhile to apply seam sealer to the inside of all the seam strips.

Because you have a zipper, it won’t…[Read more]

When figuring out the temperature and timing, I find it helps to hold the iron in one place and count out five seconds, then remove the iron and roll (or press) the spot as it cools. Then check underneath for melt-through before ripping the weld apart to see if it’s bonded fully. If five seconds isn’t right, try six (or four, etc.). If no amount…[Read more]

Thanks Matt, I figured it was fine but wanted to double check.

The iron is up to max, so I think I’m moving a bit slow, I suspect I may need more practice to find how quickly to move.

Hi Blair, it sounds fine to me. If it is 1000D then you should be able to get a good weld without permanently altering the appearance of the fabric – just move a bit faster. It takes some practice to get the timing right. Cheers