To construct your DIY Packraft kit you’ll want a fairly large work surface in an area with good lighting. Ideally your surface should be at least 1 x 2 meters (3 x 6 feet) – larger is better, especially if you’re making a Telkwa or 2-Person kit, because these have larger floor pieces than the other models.
I built my first three packraft prototypes on my dining room table and that worked well.
Some people have assembled their packraft kits on their floors, though personally my back and knees cringe at the thought. If you’re more flexible than me then working on your floor might be a good option.
If you use a nice table as your work surface, or something that isn’t heat resistant, remember to protect it from the heat of your iron with a layer of cardboard, plywood, or Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF). MDF is fine sawdust+glue pressed into a flat sheet, and is ideal because it’s very flat (good for ironing) and it transfers heat very slowly, so even a 3 mm (1/8″) thick sheet will do the job. It’s available in sheets of various sizes and thicknesses at DIY stores and lumber yards. As long as you remember to only iron over the area that is protected then you don’t need to protect your entire work surface – I typically cover an area less than one square meter (about 2 x 3 feet).
It’s also nice to have a separate chair or side table to set your iron on whenever you’re not holding it in your hand – that way you won’t accidentally move the packraft fabric onto the iron while you’re rearranging the fabric on your work surface.
You don’t necessarily need a special workshop or craft room because heat sealing doesn’t produce any fumes or bad smells. When the time comes for applying seam sealant to your packraft, you will need to do it in a well-ventilated area, but you don’t need a flat work surface for that step (if the weather is good, do it outside).
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