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Post here about other DIY projects related to DIY Packrafts.
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Would this kind of inflatable be good for making reusable cushions for packing? Consider the idea that you want to put something breakable in airport baggage handling, without using a heavy-duty suitcase. Could I make several inflatable panels (like packraft floors and seats, having baffles) and use them to cushion an item packed in a relatively-thin (think packable) bag? The advantage, of course, would be that the panels could be deflated to save space, and then re-inflated when needed (e.g., return flight home).
I’m wondering if 1-inch thick panels, with internal baffles, could be rigid enough to afford some protection?
What is the PSI guideline for these materials and welding techniques, anyhow? If they can only be blown up enough to hold an approximate shape, but are still bendy and compressible, then perhaps it’s a non-starter idea.
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Hi Veets, I’m not sure of the failure pressure of the materials, but it would probably depend on how you design the seams and would take some experimentation to get right. They can be made rigid, but I’ve never made anything as small as 1″ thick.
Note that cargo holds on most airliners are pressurized, but some smaller regional aircraft have rear cargo holds that aren’t pressurized, so the relative air pressure between the inside of the inflatable padding and the atmosphere would change significantly at altitude (at a cruising altitude of about 20,000 feet the pressure would be twice as much as at sea level), so you’d have to take that into account if you plan to travel in smaller airplanes.
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Thanks for the feedback.
I did some more reading, and it seems like maybe the thing for this idea is the “drop stitch” internal structure, for high pressure and rigidity. I don’t see anywhere that the internals can be bought online, for a DIY project, so perhaps it will just have to remain a future plan for now.
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Check out this completely inflatable pontoon boat built by Ron S. It’s designed for fishing and drifting down rivers, and the goal was to make something lightweight that he could easily hop on and off of wearing waders. Here’s what Ron had to say about it:
“The camo raft in the photo is my 3rd generation. My first raft was the 210D Yellow raft. It has the same basic shape but the center piece is an air filled box 8″ x 40″ x 22” which I heat welded to the pontoons. It was tricky to get the sides with the TPU out while getting the top and bottom TPU in. The reason was so I could do the baffles between the top and bottom and also attach the sides to the pontoons. It was necessary to reinforce the seams between the pontoon and the seat. That was also tricky but do-able. That raft works but due to the square corners on my seat it was difficult to seal and I have yet to find that final pin hole… I tried something different on the 40D red raft and after 20 hours (estimated…) I inflated it and the fabric tore at the intersection of the attached seat and the pontoon. The stress of 2 things inflating in different directions was too much for the 40D. I then dreamed up the Camo raft design. Two pontoons with a top and bottom sheet of fabric connecting the pontoons. Then I built a large seat which fits in the hole. The “seat” is essentially the same as your seat, an easy to build proven design. I made it with the 40D because it will be protected on all sides with 210D and I am shooting for low weight. The air pressure from the seat holds the pontoons apart without stressing one another. The pontoons are 12″ Diameter. It is completely adequate for one person and some gear. It weighs 5lbs and one ounce and rolls up very nicely. I want to float 2 people and I wish I had gone a foot longer and with a 13″ diameter.”
It’s amazing how much volume you can get at such a light weight! Very cool. Thanks, Ron!
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