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I’d like to add another option for your heat sealing. I use a commercial hot plate and some “irons” in various sizes to make my welds. The hot plate is pretty simple and can maintain a steady heat of about 240 degrees. The irons are home made with aluminum square stock cut to different lengths from 3/4″ to 3″ affixed to cedar blocks with JB weld. The square stock is in 1/2″ to 3/4″ wide (just under the 7/8″ belt size.
I let the blocks heat on the hot plate and use them to heat the welding length, return the block to the hot plate and use a cold aluminum plate heat sink to press the weld and set the weld by reducing the temp of the fabric. The weld takes about three seconds of contact to do the job on a flat surface. On a arch you need to roll the iron over the arch in a slow process to heat the fabric enough for the weld.
After we finish the welding of the belts we go over them one more time laying flat to finish off the ruffles on the edges and make sure we have a full weld seal across the belt. You can also iron out ridges if necessary in your belts.
Mike
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I have my hot plate set at about 244C or 470F. I have no way to test the exact temp other than the adjusting knob’s markings. I have my home made irons on the hot plate preheated. It takes approximately three seconds to weld with a single application of the preheated iron on the fabrics to be welded. At this temperature the fabric will not burn or wilt in three seconds. After the three seconds I use a cold “iron” to press and smooth out the fabrics after the heat application.
Mike
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This is something similar to what I use,
Be sure to check to see what the temperature range is before you buy one
Mike
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You will need a hot plate that can hold a steady temperature. They have some used commercial ones on the big auction site that should do the job for under $100. The one I have is about $400 but it is more than necessary in my opinion.
I preheat the hot plate to 240 with my irons on it. I like to have two of each size on the hot plate. I use one and make my three second weld, set it back on the hot plate and then press the weld with a cold iron to cool and set the weld. Then I grab the #2 of the same size and do another weld. To be honest you could probably do it with just one iron of each size. We have a club program where I help members build your rafts so we are both welding so having some extras work well for a team approach.
These irons lay down a nice weld, much more reliable than the clover tool in my opinion. you can buy the aluminum from Online metals for very little money to make you own irons.
Mike
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I find that trimming the long corner with a straight edge to the correctly aligned corner at the other side of the panel works best for me. If you think of the raft shape as a frying pan before closing the chambers, the attached panels edges are much easier to work with when it is a even continuous edge (rim). That way when you roll it to align with the first floor weld during step two it will match very closely.
Mike
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