Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
-
Well, off to find leaks! I’m at roughly 2-3 breaths every couple hours, but would like to make it a bit tighter!
The front end is a little botched (turns out I misread your instructions; I think you said 10-12 inches from the end of the boat/tip of the boat when ironing the center seams and I did 10 inches from the end of the seam. It was too late at that point for the front seam. Back seam is more or less without flaws.
-
Figured I’d show it more or less rigged up now. I made a seat back out of some closed cell foam and a couple scraps of fabric. I used a piece of two sided so that I could weld a baffle in the middle, but someone with half a brain and a sewing kit could probably do a better job of it. I figured I’d share though because I thought that if executed better, the rear attachment points on the seat actually work pretty well. If I had made them a little wider it would be a bit more stable but as it is it works.
Also, for anyone thinking of doing the attachment points like I did for the top of the thigh strap and seat, I’d probably recommend a d’ring as it is easier to attach cord and what not to it; but that being said the way I did it here seems pretty strong so far. I sandwiched a piece of floor fabric between two tube fabric pieces and then welded in on with little slots. Larger slots probably would have been better too, but at the end of the day, it’s a home made raft and my first go. I hadn’t seen anyone do this either but with two d-rings in one patch you can make little cinch points for webbing. I’m using these for the end of my thigh staps, and I’ll probably put a quick release up by me in the cockpit.
I’d also suggest using a pencil on some of your designs fellow pack raft builders. I have lots of sharpie marks… I’d also recommend the 8 oz tube of aquaseal/seamgrip; you’ll end up using it. I’m pretty sure my raft is a quarter pounde heavier in glue. I’m not sure which one is better having used both; the seam grip is easier to apply, but the aquaseal seems more robust? Hard to say. Most of my air leaks were from where I had attached the zipper (three bubblers on the ends, I didn’t do the glue on the inside seam). So I resealed and glued those, and then ended up adding aquaseal to as many of the tube junctions as I could and it seems to be more or less air tight now, maybe a breath or two a day. The other place I think I had leaks was on some of the tube floor junctions on the outside of the boat, but some quick work with aquaseal on those edges on the inside and it seems fine. I’m not sure how much tighter I could possibly hope for? Matt how often do you top off your boat if it’s just sitting around?
Also, just a side question, how does everyone not have glue-brain after working on these things?? I feel like there were a few times when I had my head in the tube gluing things and it was only a step away from a paper bag…
And maiden “voyage” in shallow pond in a cold lake
-
-
Hey Matt,
So I can’t find a Coverite Black Baron for sale anywhere. Any suggestions on which iron to go for? Do you think this hot air welding is worth pursuing? The closest looking thing I could find is the Hangar Nine but upon purchase I was unable to remove all of the electronics (without destroying the device) in order to modify the shoe for better construction. I just ordered a V3 kit which I’m excited about, but I can’t seem to find the right tools for the job. What do you think?
Best,
Jacob
-
Figured I’d show it more or less rigged up now. I made a seat back out of some closed cell foam and a couple scraps of fabric. I used a piece of two sided so that I could weld a baffle in the middle, but someone with half a brain and a sewing kit could probably do a better job of it. I figured I’d share though because I thought that if executed better, the rear attachment points on the seat actually work pretty well. If I had made them a little wider it would be a bit more stable but as it is it works.
