Jason

Matt (Admin) wrote a new post 7 years, 5 months ago

I’m really pleased with all the great content people have been posting on the DIY Packraft Forum. It’s inspiring for me to see the pictures and videos of the packrafts you’ve made, and there are useful tips and […]

Matt (Admin) wrote a new post 7 years, 6 months ago

This is just a quick update to announce that the TIZIP 50 cm SuperSeal airtight zippers are back in stock after a factory delay threw off the timing of my resupply, so they were listed as “backordered” for a […]

Matt (Admin) wrote a new post 7 years, 6 months ago

Quincy made this awesome time-lapse video of himself making a DIY Packraft from plans and uncut fabric – 21 hours from start to finish, including a double-layer floor and airtight zipper! This proves you don’t […]

Matt (Admin) wrote a new post 7 years, 6 months ago

You may have noticed the new valves that are now available in the shop in addition to the Boston valves, top-up valves, and small valves that were already available.

These valves pop open and closed with a […]

Matt (Admin) replied 7 years, 3 months ago

If you want to add air while paddling, then yes, I recommend a top-up valve.
Matt (Admin) replied 4 years, 11 months ago

Yep, that’s right. Cheers!
unnamedpeaks replied 4 years, 11 months ago

So, does this mean you with this system I could make an inflation bag that was also a dry-bag, when this valve was closed? Or is the modification destructive, meaning you are left with a hole in the bottom of the bag?
- Matt (Admin) replied 4 years, 11 months ago
  
  Unfortunately you have to cut a hole in the cap for the air to flow through, so it wouldn’t be waterproof.
unnamedpeaks replied 4 years, 11 months ago

Having put these in multiple rafts, what are you preferring? These seem like they would be better for the UL raft, maybe include this as an option on that page…
- Matt (Admin) replied 4 years, 11 months ago
  
  I prefer the heat sealable Boston valves because they are much easier to install.
Matt (Admin) replied 4 years, 9 months ago

They cannot; instead, the flange around the valve should be glued between two layers of fabric that are heat sealed together (as in the pictures above).
adelorenzo replied 4 years, 8 months ago

Just so I’m clear…. I would glue these valves onto the outside of the boat so they sit on top of the tube, not inside it. Then I glue a donut on top and heat seal around it?
- Matt (Admin) replied 4 years, 8 months ago
  
  Yep, that’s right. You’ll just have to cut out slots in the ring to accommodate the cap retainers.
Matt (Admin) replied 2 years, 5 months ago

Aquaseal works, but something like HH-66 or Stabond might be stronger.

Matt (Admin) wrote a new post 7 years, 6 months ago

This is just a quick update to let you know that the new fabric shipment is finally moving again after the export Customs issue was resolved. Next stop: import Customs…

Tommy Engebretsen replied 7 years, 5 months ago

Hi!
Any update?

Matt (Admin) wrote a new post 7 years, 6 months ago

Good news – I have just heard from the manufacturer that they have sorted out the Customs mess. Now I am awaiting new tracking information for the shipment…

Matt (Admin) wrote a new post 7 years, 6 months ago

Below are patterns for making spray decks like the one pictured above, designed to fit Small, Medium, and Large V2 DIY Packrafts (and V2 plans). They can also be modified to fit the V3 DIY Packraft as […]

Matt (Admin) replied 7 years, 6 months ago

Hi Joe – I’m glad your build went well and you’re putting your packraft to good use!

I think your half deck idea would be an easy way to keep most of the splashes out, and the bent tent pole (or maybe even just your knees) would keep the deck sloped so the water would run off the sides – good idea! If you give it a try, please let us know how it works out. Cheers!
Matt (Admin) replied 5 years, 4 months ago

Sorry, I don’t have a Rogue-Lite so I don’t know.

@jrbowman