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Matt (Admin) commented on the post, Video Showing How Plans & Kits Work 8 years ago
Thanks, José – I am uploading the first video right now!
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Matt (Admin) wrote a new post 8 years ago
I am starting to make my next packraft, and when choosing which colours I wanted to use, I found it helpful to print out several copies of this outline and colour in the different segments with different options […]
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Matt (Admin) wrote a new post 8 years ago
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Matt (Admin) commented on the post, New Plans Shipping Now 8 years ago
Great – thank you! I don’t have a list of retailers… I get the impression that they sell mostly to manufacturers, so there are likely very few retailers who sell just the zippers.
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Matt (Admin) commented on the post, New Plans Shipping Now 8 years ago
I think 76 cm could be too long, as you might struggle to find a place to install it that would make sense without crossing any seams.The maximum diameter of objects you can store in the tubes is less than 30 cm, […]
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Matt (Admin) wrote a new post 8 years, 2 months ago
For a video and more up-to-date information on this topic, visit this page.
If you’re paddling an ultra-lightweight inflatable packraft in any but the most ideal conditions, it’s almost inevitable that you […]
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Hi Matt,
I have two questions:
-1; if I touch some adjacent parts of the TPU coated fabric with my iron while ironninng the seam strips for tube to tube attachment, or generally if I unperposelly touch some TPU with my iron and that it leaves a mark, suggesting that the TPU is affected, should I systematically apply some Aquaseal, or any type of glue to prevent a probable leak?
-2; if I iron for too long, in my case, when I attached a tube to my V3 floor, I ironned for two long and the bottom part of the floor (the one in contact with the water) has some spots where the TPU is a liltle bit melted (but still covering the nylon I think), again, should sytematicaly seal these spots to prevent possible leaks?
Thanks!
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Hi Tom, it wouldn’t hurt to apply some Aquaseal to all areas of damaged TPU. Personally, I only do so where it looks like the TPU might not be airtight – if it is only slightly melted, it is usually okay. Similarly, where I iron too long I usually do apply some adhesive to the fabric if it looks like there is any chance it might not be airtight. It’s best to apply the adhesive to the inside of the fabric in places where it will not darken the fabric (e.g. the floor) or where darker patches won’t be noticeable on the inflated packraft. If the floor fabric is damaged on the outside (bottom), I would also apply some adhesive there to protect it from abrasion.
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Ok perfect, and what kind of adhesive would you recommend for the melted floor where I ironed too long? For the inside of the tubes, would you use some bands of TuckTape? And use some Seamgrip for the outside (bottom) of the floor?
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I’d use Seam Grip or Aquaseal for the outside of the floor. You could try the tape inside the tubes, but I’m not sure if that’ll work. I generally use Seam Grip or Aquaseal on the outside of the tube fabric, or heat seal a small scrap of fabric over a leak.
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Matt,
Do you have any experience repairing holes in kokopelli packrafts (the nirvana, specifically)? I have some leftover fabric from my Telkwa and a friend has a Nirvana that leaks along the seam underneath an old patch that someone else applied. I’m thinking the heat sealing technique is probably more permanent than glue patches, and I’ve read that kokopelli uses TPU. Just wondering if it’s a good/bad idea before I take a heat iron to a friend’s boat.-
I’m pretty confident it will work fine, but before tackling the repair, try welding a small circle of fabric to an out-of-the-way spot to make sure. Cheers
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Killer. Thanks man. Looking forward to putting the new spray deck on my Telkwa! I’m taking the Telkwa (sans spray deck) down the middle fork of the salmon in late August. I’ll let ya know if she pops 😂
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Right on! Bon voyage 😀
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For those that want to use glue for punctures, I use Helaplast, a PVC glue, I don’t know the name on USA, but I know it exists because I saw a YouTube Video using a PVC glue that is similar. It is not for small punctures (Aquaseal is better), but to apply a large piece of TPU it holds extremely well. I use it to add tie downs because it is at least for me much easier than using heat. I even glued none TPU side to TPU side and put whole weight on it (hanging) and the fabrics ripped apart not the glued parts.
Instructions how to use best here: https://www.packrafting.de/2011/09/tiedowns-richtig-ankleben.html?m=1-
Thanks for the tip, Daniel!
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I used a product called Toobseal, which is a runny, acrylic based sealant. I put about half a bottle of the 32 oz in through the Boston valve, filled it up and rotated a few times. It found the leak and so far appears to have sealed well. Time will tell if it holds up well. I had previously had a slow leak that I couldn’t find, but figured it out with the toobseal. I think this would mess up a tizip if it came in contact, but this seems like an option for those like me who opted to not get a zipper. It also stains the inside fabric, which doesn’t bother me, but likely would bother others.
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That’s interesting – thanks for the tip, Zach! Did it coat the entire inside of the packraft? That might actually be a nice option for people who are looking for a bit of extra security and who don’t mind the adde weight. Cheers!
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I think so, but I’m not sure how uniform I can get the inner coating. I’ll really have to test it out on the water and give it a few days to see how effective it is. I’m optimistic, but I’ll give an update once it’s been really put to the test. The product is $55 and I bought it from Utah whitewater gear online. I also poured some into my seat since it holds air well, but not perfect. We don’t have any rain in the forecast, but I hope to battle test this out on the river soon. I can say that I purchased a top off valve from MRS that I like for inflating on the river that I used last time I took it out, but if this product works out, I’m hoping to not need to top off at all. We’ll see how it goes.
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Update on the Toobseal. I’m not entirely sure if it’s due to having put too much in the valve, but now my stern seam strip is starting to tear away. My suspicion is that too much of the Toobseal worked its way between the tube and seam strip fabric and maybe since it’s made to plug air leaks, wedged its way in which caused the separation. I’m not sure if it’s from of not having the seam strip welded properly too much of the Toobseal, but it’s problematic enough to possibly not recommend the product. My guess is I just applied too much and it soaked the fabric. It seems to only be on that seam strip so maybe it’s still good, but I’d recommend just being cautious and conservative with how much is applied if anyone tries out this product.
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Matt (Admin) wrote a new post 8 years, 5 months ago
Several of you taller folks have been asking for a packraft that will accommodate your larger bodies better, and I’m happy to announce that I’m ready to ship plans for a packraft that has a cockpit length of about […]
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Matt (Admin) wrote a new post 8 years, 5 months ago
I’ve just posted a video showing how to bond the curved seams in your DIY Packraft. Have a look and let me know if you have any questions or comments!
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Matt (Admin) wrote a new post 8 years, 6 months ago
Note: DIY Packraft is no longer selling packraft plans.
In order to reproduce my plans, I looked into various printing options and quickly discovered I would lose money if I stuck to my goal of keeping the price […]
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Привет, у меня нет планов для нового 140-сантиметрового плота, только для старой версии V2. Большой размер – 130 см. Если вы хотите, вы можете увидеть стоимость доставки, добавив ее в свою корзину и указав свой адрес. Для просмотра стоимости доставки не требуется покупка. благодаря
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I was wondering what the big differences between the v2 and v3 patterns are? Something about being easier to assemble (double coated floor material aside)? Something about the floor pan extending further up the stern of the boat? Is there a major difference in cross sections and guide curves of the boat?
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Hi Patrick – the biggest difference is that patterns are not available for the V3, only kits. Compared to the V2, the V3 is just a design update for better balance and tracking, fewer wrinkles, better bottom protection (the floor fabric extends farther up the sides and back). The cross section looks slightly different due to the different floor material and the order of putting things together is changed to make it easier. Cheers!
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Hi Deyan, each new version is improved compared to the older ones, so I do not sell the older inferior ones.
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That’s correct. There will be a new ultralight version when the new ultralight fabric arrives later this summer.
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Matt (Admin) wrote a new post 8 years, 6 months ago
This weekend I went paddling with some friends on a local lake – they in kayaks and canoes, and me in my newly finished DIY packraft prototype #3. I’m happy to report that it performed well and, just as imp […]
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Matt (Admin) wrote a new post 8 years, 11 months ago
Until now, the packraft market has been dominated by expensive brands offering a limited range of boats, with few options for customization. Owners complain of flaws in their rafts and boats that are heavier than […]
Sí, he enviado a Chile! Puede encontrar los precios en la página Shop e ingresar su dirección en la página Cart para calcular el costo de envío. Gracias 🙂