Jason

I think you’ll find the width of the 2-Person packraft to be as much of an issue as the seat height, and after testing the idea of a kayak-style seat you might change your mind. When paddling solo with a large/heavy load, I actually prefer to sit on the rear tubes because it’s narrower there and you have better visibility and control.

Very cool! If I had a 3D printer I would definitely make one. What kind of plastic did you use?

I tried to figure out what threads are in the valves, but I wasn’t able to find a match. The same threads are in valves from at least two different sources, so it might be a Boston valve thing.

No problem!

In the meantime, I’ve changed it to bold text and added another bullet to the list.

Don’t worry – that’s normal. It looks like you’re doing a good job. Sorry for the confusion.

The answer to your question is directly below the text you quoted – it’s even referred to by the asterisk in the quoted section 🙂

Since switching to the 450 GSM floor fabric, I get this question a lot, so I keep moving the information, thinking “Now…[Read more]

Gorgeous photos! Thanks for posting!

Great idea! I find that the weight of the iron’s cord sometimes drags the light aluminum stand off my table – this would certainly solve that problem!

Impressive work – thanks for documenting your project! It’s very cool! I’m sure other people will want to follow your lead.

Fantastic!

Don’t worry – if you do a good job sealing the remaining 1″ of fabric to the floor it will be more than strong enough. I design the overlaps to be much wider than necessary for a strong bond, and even half the width there is more than strong enough, assuming proper heat sealing technique over the entire weld. Sealing the cut-off piece of fabric to…[Read more]

Wow – very cool photos! It looks like a great time!

Great shot, Ken! It’s scary how dry things are though…

Hi Kyle, I usually have a bit of misalignment there too and it’s not a problem (and being on the bottom of the packraft, it’s not noticeable). As long as the combined length of each edge (floor + tube) is the same, you can iron the strip on without any wrinkles in one tube or the other.

Interesting – yeah, the ones I have are different brands than yours, but they do take a long time to heat up using 120V (at least ten minutes), and one of them has a bogus ground like yours. I haven’t noticed the temperature varying too much in either of them though.

Interesting! Thanks for posting this… it is a bit worrying that the safety features aren’t as advertised, but we should never leave these irons plugged in unattended anyway, so maybe it’s not such a concern.

I didn’t quite follow the steps to the conclusion that it’s only suitable for 240V – can you explain your reasoning?