Lyn St George

FYI: while the 70D is good and airtight (I made a sleeping mat out of it once), the 430D is not. The packcloth weave is encouragingly tough against scissors, but the coating is so thin that the edges fray. The weave shows through the coating. A quick welding test shows that the coating is not strong enough, and I cba making a seat cushion to test…[Read more]

Would these be coming in the same shipment as the new green fabric, by some lucky chance? What sort of weight will the 420d be?

Perhaps, Matt, this would be a good time to add a note to your shop page about the risk of buying fabric from other sources that is not marked ‘nylon 66’, and a link to this thread (saying to read it all – it’s too easy to miss important bits in a long thread). Many of us have been caught by this issue now, and I’m sure that we would all regard…[Read more]

Correction: the original 70d tpu fabric I bought some years ago was from SeattleFabrics, not extremtextil. As others so rightly say, their customer service is diabolically bad, to the point where I expunged the transaction from my memory and assumed that I had bought it from ExtremTextil instead. Despite that I have some samples from them now. The…[Read more]

Correction: the original 70d tpu fabric I bought some years ago was from SeattleFabrics, not extremtextil. As others so rightly say, their customer service is diabolically bad, to the point where I expunged the transaction from my memory and assumed that I had bought it from ExtremTextil instead. Despite that I have some samples from them now. The…[Read more]

If you’re thinking of buying this fabric Hiroshi, then the general consensus here is to not buy it. Extremtextil have some very heavy tpu coated nylon which they describe as ‘high tenacity’, but all the others are not, and the fabric melts at almost the same temperature as you need for welding. Andreas says he will buy Matt’s fabric next time, not…[Read more]

The alumuminium bar is only 15×0.9mm (barely strong enough) and the original bolt is plenty long enough for this thickness.

The alumuminium bar is only 15×0.9mm (barely strong enough) and the original bolt is plenty long enough for this thickness.

The alumuminium bar is only 15×0.9mm (barely strong enough) and the original bolt is plenty long enough for this thickness.

343 seems to be a clear favourite – and a worthy one too, nicely dark and stealthy. Any chance of getting this colour into stock soon?

Yes, though Tyvek tape will also do. If you have finished the process that Mike and Matt described, then applying this tape inside would be a good idea. I have only seen inside an MRS but I suspect that other manufacturers also seam-tape inside as well.

Here it is – it proved better to add a second guide at the rear to feed the tape straighter into the forward guide.

Here it is – it proved better to add a second guide at the rear to feed the tape straighter into the forward guide.

Here it is – it proved better to add a second guide at the rear to feed the tape straighter into the forward guide.

I can’t really tell from the photo if you have a cargo zip, but if so could you get inside and apply some of Matt’s Tuck Tape over all the seams? I would do what Mike says first, and then run that tape over all the seams inside if possible. Looking inside my MRS X2, it has some sort of sealing tape over all the seams.

When I get a minute I’ll make a little guide to bolt in front of the roller – something to feed the seam tape through as it comes from behind the roller and allow it to be steered. Will also keep the tape at a flatter angle to the fabric and closer to the gun, and add a little drag to keep it taut. Fiddling around with fingers and thumbs is too awkward.

When I get a minute I’ll make a little guide to bolt in front of the roller – something to feed the seam tape through as it comes from behind the roller and allow it to be steered. Will also keep the tape at a flatter angle to the fabric and closer to the gun, and add a little drag to keep it taut. Fiddling around with fingers and thumbs is too awkward.

When I get a minute I’ll make a little guide to bolt in front of the roller – something to feed the seam tape through as it comes from behind the roller and allow it to be steered. Will also keep the tape at a flatter angle to the fabric and closer to the gun, and add a little drag to keep it taut. Fiddling around with fingers and thumbs is too awkward.

I haven’t yet had time to do more than a couple of hours testing, but it’s quite practical to use the gun in one hand and the roller in the other, following directly behind the gun. It also seems to work well, though it will need more practice, to wrap the seam tape over the roller so it trails behind, and use the roller in your palm and two…[Read more]