José

I haven’t calculated it yet, but it should be comparable to the V3 plus a bit for some extra things that will be included that the V3 kit doesn’t have.

Hi Matt,

Any chance we can get the new design, but without the wrap around floor? I’d want beefier fabrics than the ultralight kit (210D tubes, 410D floors), but would like the ease of construction and improved paddling speed compared to the V3. I’m not sure the type of water I’m in warrants the wrap around floor.

Thanks,
Joe

Hi Dan, I’m going to paddle it and the new 2-person packraft for the first time this weekend, and if all goes well I hope to have kits available later this month. No guarantees though!

Hi Nick, I’ll be testing out a seat for this packraft this weekend – I suspect it might need a bit more work, but yes, I hope to have it in the shop soon. Cheers!

Yep, you’re right – it’s got a higher volume bow and stern.

No, there’s nothing about the V3 design that precludes a wrap-around bottom, but I don’t intend to offer it as an option.

Hi Christian, thanks for your interest! It depends on the type of paddling you want to do, but if weight isn’t your main concern, personally I would choose the new model. Aside from the design updates, the instructions will be easier to follow. It’ll be in the shop quite soon. Cheers!

I don’t foresee any issues with the seat back interfering with a spray deck – just place the cockpit coaming back far enough so the seat back doesn’t push against it. Thigh straps shouldn’t be a problem either. If you don’t like the seat you can cut off the seat back and just make a flat seat instead and add a back band or something else (or just cut the seat back shorter). If you get an extra top-up valve (or repurpose the one intended for the packraft) you could turn the seat back into an inflatable foot rest or a pillow to go between your knees. There are lots of possibilities. Cheers!

I haven’t designed one yet, but it’s certainly possible!

Yeah, I’ll probably make a video of the new packrafts after I finish all the instructions.

I see you found it 😀

Yup waiting eagerly for it to arrive now!

I’m really interested in this design for a couple river (moderate whitewater) trips. Do you have the interior width (front and rear, since it clearly tapers)? I’m looking at the two smallest sizes. Shifting weight forward for better weight balance (fore/aft) is a pretty standard packraft design (the included seat design does that to some extent), and I’m wondering if I will get a good fit width wise if I go that route.

I purchased a Telkwa kit from Matt in late June and finished it in early August. Building it was much like the V3 I built last January. However, there are a few key differences and so you should certainly review Matt’s updated Telkwa build videos to avoid some of the mistakes I made. Probably the biggest difference is that now Matt recommends using the “inside out” construction technique. I used that and found that it does aid in better access to the weld areas. On the down side, it also works the material pretty hard and there are touch up welds or seam grip “repairs” needed if you don’t take lots of care to get your welds right the first time. A person could still build the Telkwa using the V3 method as an alternative if so wished. I purchased my Telkwa kit with the zipper which definitely aided in the construction, especially in closing the aft seam.

I feel like the cockpit is just a bit narrower than the V3 as is the foot compartment. Still, there is room for me in the 130cm size.

The new seat design is fantastic with the pillow back. However, I definitely recommend sealing the seat separate from the seat back because while sitting on a partially inflated seat, my body weight pushed all the air into the back which left me with no air in the seat bottom. After I ironed the neck closed, I added a top off valve to the seat back. I put more air into the seat back and that gives great back support. Less air in the seat keeps my center of gravity lower in the boat but still keeps my butt off the floor.

I have taken my Telkwa on the middle Yellowstone River several times now, riffles only, maybe a possible low-end class 1 rapid. The Telkwa tracks much better in the water than the V3 does because of the more stream lined bow. I always add about 25# (12 kilos) to the front to keep it level in the water (a big, rounded rock has been used in the bow compartment a time or two, as well). I’m really pleased with how it handles. I have hit a few “butt dragger” shallows and had no fear of the bottom opening up. The extended floor up the side walls of the tubes gives me a bit more secure feeling should I scrape a log or rock although I have not done that and really try to keep from doing that.

My Telkwa weighs within an ounce or two of the V3 and pumps up with the same number of strokes from my small piston pump. My boating friends are amazed that I have built my own boats and are envious of the light weight when hauling gear back to the car shuttle or when hiking to a mountain lake (V3).

YES, this works even better in combination with a hot air soldering station:
https://www.banggood.com/858D-220V-Hot-Air-Soldering-Rework-Station-Handle-Handle-Stand3-Nozzles-p-1129100.html?rmmds=buy&cur_warehouse=CN

YES, this works even better in combination with a hot air soldering station:
https://www.banggood.com/858D-220V-Hot-Air-Soldering-Rework-Station-Handle-Handle-Stand3-Nozzles-p-1129100.html?rmmds=buy&cur_warehouse=CN

See the link in the first comment above.

Very creative, i like it!