- DIY Packraft

Matt (Admin) wrote a new post 7 years, 6 months ago

Bad news first:
Remember when there was that Customs delay last month? Well that was the export Customs office. Now the fabric shipment is in Canada, and here we have our very own Customs officers and apparently […]

Matt (Admin) replied 7 years, 6 months ago

Hi Brian – thanks for the tip. I’ve been in touch with the broker and freight forwarder on an almost daily basis and they both confirm it’s Customs holding it up, but yeah, I’ve had shippers, brokers, and forwarders screw things up in the past. I’ve learned not to sit back and assume everyone is doing their job perfectly all the time… unfortunately.

Matt (Admin) wrote a new post 7 years, 7 months ago

It’s been a while since I uploaded any new pictures or videos, so when I went paddling today my plan was to bring my cameras and get some interesting shots; unfortunately, I managed to forget both my tripod and my […]

Matt (Admin) wrote a new post 7 years, 7 months ago

I don’t have any confirmed dates yet, but it’s been a while since my last fabric update, so here’s where things stand now:

The fabric is in Vancouver and should be released from Canada Customs tomorrow, after […]

Matt (Admin) wrote a new post 7 years, 7 months ago

Returning customers will notice that there are now more shipping options available during checkout. These prices are pulled directly from Canada Post’s website and are based on your delivery address and the […]

Matt (Admin) wrote a new post 7 years, 7 months ago

Yesterday I made some changes to the back end of the DIY Packraft shop to make payments easier for people outside the US. The most noticeable change is that now prices can be displayed in your local currency, and […]

Kwok Wah Lai replied 7 years, 7 months ago

Hi Matt,
Please Hong Kong dollar to both display and drop-down.
Format is,
HK$1,234.56
Thousand separator is a comma.
Decimal separator is a full stop.
Two digits to the right of full stop (cents).

Thanks for adding and making our life easier.
- Matt (Admin) replied 7 years, 7 months ago
  
  Done! Thanks 🙂

Matt (Admin) wrote a new post 7 years, 7 months ago

I’m really pleased with all the great content people have been posting on the DIY Packraft Forum. It’s inspiring for me to see the pictures and videos of the packrafts you’ve made, and there are useful tips and […]

Matt (Admin) wrote a new post 7 years, 8 months ago

This is just a quick update to announce that the TIZIP 50 cm SuperSeal airtight zippers are back in stock after a factory delay threw off the timing of my resupply, so they were listed as “backordered” for a […]

Matt (Admin) wrote a new post 7 years, 8 months ago

Quincy made this awesome time-lapse video of himself making a DIY Packraft from plans and uncut fabric – 21 hours from start to finish, including a double-layer floor and airtight zipper! This proves you don’t […]

Matt (Admin) wrote a new post 7 years, 8 months ago

You may have noticed the new valves that are now available in the shop in addition to the Boston valves, top-up valves, and small valves that were already available.

These valves pop open and closed with a […]

Matt (Admin) replied 7 years, 5 months ago

If you want to add air while paddling, then yes, I recommend a top-up valve.
Matt (Admin) replied 5 years, 1 month ago

Yep, that’s right. Cheers!
unnamedpeaks replied 5 years ago

So, does this mean you with this system I could make an inflation bag that was also a dry-bag, when this valve was closed? Or is the modification destructive, meaning you are left with a hole in the bottom of the bag?
- Matt (Admin) replied 5 years ago
  
  Unfortunately you have to cut a hole in the cap for the air to flow through, so it wouldn’t be waterproof.
unnamedpeaks replied 5 years ago

Having put these in multiple rafts, what are you preferring? These seem like they would be better for the UL raft, maybe include this as an option on that page…
- Matt (Admin) replied 5 years ago
  
  I prefer the heat sealable Boston valves because they are much easier to install.
Matt (Admin) replied 4 years, 10 months ago

They cannot; instead, the flange around the valve should be glued between two layers of fabric that are heat sealed together (as in the pictures above).
adelorenzo replied 4 years, 9 months ago

Just so I’m clear…. I would glue these valves onto the outside of the boat so they sit on top of the tube, not inside it. Then I glue a donut on top and heat seal around it?
- Matt (Admin) replied 4 years, 9 months ago
  
  Yep, that’s right. You’ll just have to cut out slots in the ring to accommodate the cap retainers.
Matt (Admin) replied 2 years, 6 months ago

Aquaseal works, but something like HH-66 or Stabond might be stronger.

Matt (Admin) wrote a new post 7 years, 8 months ago

This is just a quick update to let you know that the new fabric shipment is finally moving again after the export Customs issue was resolved. Next stop: import Customs…

Tommy Engebretsen replied 7 years, 7 months ago

Hi!
Any update?

Tristan

@thigbee