Marco

No worries 🙂

Hi Alex – don’t panic! This is fixable.

It doesn’t look too far off and I think you’ll be alright. If worse comes to worst, send me an email through the Contact page and I’ll give you my phone number so I can help you out. I’m off to dinner now, but briefly, here’s what I propose:

Position 4R so it lines up with the floor slit and 5R, and trim…[Read more]

Beautiful shot with the glacier in the background!

Sounds good. I think you’ll find that a properly welded seam is stronger than the fabric panels, so sewing the seams would be redundant. You can see this demonstrated in my original fabric comparison video, where I show how the fabric tears before the welds give out. Cheers

Hi Conrad, unfortunately there’s no simple way for me to add an allowance to the pieces, but if you want I could make a kit with the lines drawn in pen instead of cutting them out, and then you could add an allowance yourself. It might be time-consuming for you though.

Hi Pham,

I’ve looked into various welding techniques a bit, but not really in regards to strength of bond. Heat sealing creates a bond of more than adequate strength for the way I design things – when reinforced properly, the fabrics fail before the heat welds do – so I haven’t needed to explore other options.

For the typical DIYer,…[Read more]

I’m sticking this topic to the front page because it got buried – please post tips here instead of starting a new topic.

Hi Rodney – Bruce wrote a post partially about that here: https://www.diypackraft.com/forums/topic/heat-sealing-tools/#post-4265

Cheers

Excellent! I love the look of the yellow tubes and black trim.

Excellent! Thanks for posting pictures, Derek!

Very cool! Thanks for posting!

Thanks Naas, that’s good to know! It’s interesting that you have to clamp it. Do you think it would work on a flat surface if you pressed it with a roller or placed weights on top, or does it need to be clamped?

Hi Conrad – don’t worry, it’s just cosmetic. Once you get the hang of it, you’ll know how long you can heat it without melting through. In the meantime, just make sure you’ve got a non-stick surface underneath, such as parchment paper. Cheers!

Cool! If you have any more photos, please post them. Thanks!

Hi Pham,

Tim at http://www.cubenmaker.com is a great resource for information about Dyneema fabrics.

I think people usually use tape or sewing+tape to assemble Dyneema, and the problem with using it for inflatables is that the tape creeps over time under pressure (I’ve never tried it myself though).

Cheers!

Hi Joe,

It looks like you’ll need

• 1 m of 1000D
• 2 m of 210D for the tubes
• 3 m 210D for the inflatable floor insert (you could use less, but then you’d have to patch together multiple pieces for the top and bottom, which would be difficult to make airtight)
• At least four drain valves (front and back, left and right, placed near the seat…

[Read more]