This page is under construction – please check back for updates!
This page will include V3-related instructions and/or links for making:
- Tie-Downs, Grab Loops, and other Attachment Points
- Back Rest
- Inflatable Floor Insert
- Self-Bailing Floor
- Thigh Straps
- Airtight Zipper Installation in a Completed Packraft
- Spray Deck
- Spray Skirt
Inflatable Floor Insert
For the V3 DIY Packraft, instead of an integrated inflatable floor I’m recommending making an inflatable insert similar to an air mattress or extended seat. A separate insert is easier to make and repair, and can also be used as a 3/4 length camping mattress.
You can make an inflatable floor insert out of either 40D or 210D fabric, depending on how much abrasion you expect to subject it to. (I’ve been using a 40D seat with no problems, but if you get sand and gravel into the boat it will wear through the 40D faster than the 210D.) You could probably make an insert with an additional 1 m of fabric, plus maybe some of the scrap tube material from your V3 kit, but 2 m would be ideal and you’d have fabric left over for other things.
I haven’t made one yet, so for now please refer to the free seat plans in the Shop – you can simply modify the dimensions to fit your boat. If you have questions, please ask.
Self-Bailing Floor
To make your packraft self-bailing, you’ll need to make an inflatable floor insert (see above) and add drain holes in your packraft’s floor near the lowest point (which is under your butt). You could simply cut holes in the floor for the water to drain out, but I recommend installing two-way press-fit valves in the floor so you have the option of closing the drain holes when you’re not paddling in whitewater. (Don’t install them where they will be covered by the inflatable floor insert or the water won’t drain.) Add at least two valves, one on either side of the cockpit near its widest point. Ben K added four valves to his packraft, and he reports that they provide enough drainage for class I-II whitewater, but you’ll want more drains if you’re tackling class III or higher.
3 Comments
Ben K · September 1, 2021 at 7:43 pm
Hey Matt, quick comment on the drain holes for self-bailing option. I ended up putting four in the rear (two on each side of my butt) with the two-way valve installed on each. This works well for class I and II rapids, but for III or more I find that the drainage really is not sufficient to keep the raft maneuverable. I plan on adding two-to-four more to help drain faster on those longer wave trains! The two-way valve tip is excellent advice, by-the-way!
Matt (Admin) · September 2, 2021 at 8:55 am
Thanks for the feedback, Ben! I’m not surprised – when I look at pictures that show the bottoms of manufactured self-bailing packrafts, I see a LOT of drain holes. I’ll update the self-bailing info with your observations. Cheers!
Matt (Admin) · September 2, 2021 at 8:56 am
Oh, and out of curiosity, did you add an inflatable floor insert, or are you just using the regular seat? Thanks